With mixed emotions, our sullen
group approach the take-out at the Mackenzie River. I’ve
been in denial for the past four days that our trip is coming to
an end!
Waiting
patiently for
the planes arrival tomorrow,
the group debriefs our trip, I take the time to relax by the fire.
As I gaze across the expanse of the Mackenzie River, I slowly drift
back to the beginning of our excellent adventure. River tripping
for me is more than the thrill of the paddle or visual stimuli; it’s
about emotions of discovery in my surroundings, my companions and myself.
I feel as if
the Mountain River has become a part of me, and I have to come
to terms with this before I could leave.
Mountain River
Magic
Our trip ended as it started— heavy smoke
in the air!!! This was the only downside to our adventure. It had been
a bad fire season
with all of Alaska, most of the Yukon, and at least some of the NWT
blanketed with smoke. We had made our way towards Mayo for the flight
into the Mountain River under protest to the amount of smoke in the air.
Reaching
Mayo, Ernie (our pilot) informed us of the low visibility in the
Mackenzie Mountains, exactly what I had not hoped to hear! Once again
I found myself
dreaming. This dream was of a clear sunny day with no smoke for the
next day’s flight so I could practice some aerial photography
techniques I had studied for the trip. As we flew into Norseman Lake,
words were not needed to describe our disappointment, or at least
apprehension about the possibility of paddling for three weeks in
smoke! On the
bright side, I did manage to get a couple pictures of the wing.
As we approached Norseman Lake,
the smoke parted enough to get a vague outline of the surrounding
landscape. Mountains were barren gray silhouettes
in the distance with the river winding far below. While spiraling
down to the lake, we noticed some canoes on shore at the far end.
They
belonged to Teresa's group whom we had met in Whitehorse, and would
bump into again further
down river. Norseman is a small lake surrounded by hummocky ground
covered by stunted birch, and located at the base of a mountain that
offered great hiking with an endless view. Ernie knew this and had
made a very good suggestion, which we accepted in good faith. Our
original destination was Dusty Lake, but when discussing this with
Ernie, he suggested Norseman was the best place to hike right from
camp. Perfect!
We had flown on the first
of two flights and as always, needed to explore the area, find and
establish a suitable
camp location for the
crew, making damn sure tea is made for the second group's arrival.
In the end, Norseman Lake was one of the most difficult locations in
which to accommodate six tents and we had to work hard for firewood.
No trees...
go figure? As well, I should have looked harder for tarp poles!! As
the tarp guy, I (with help) had to suitably construct a shelter for
life on the river for some fairly— how shall I describe this...
demanding people. This is a common attribute with voyageurs. For this
chancy twenty-five day stint on the Mountain River, I knew that after
having read all the wet, snow and wind trip reports, a dry safe-haven
was
important.
Scouting around, we locate a suitable area to erect the tarp. Unfortunately,
there were full and empty barrels of fuel leaking and rusting away
beside the lake! If you fly it in... Please take it out!!! On the other
hand I’m not one to waste an opportunity, so after a short debate,
we used the barrels for tarp erection and kitchen counter space. A
few hours later the remainder of our group arrived while we put the
final
touches to the first of many shelters. Day one eventually dwindles
away as we settle into our new surroundings and a much-anticipated
trip. With drinks in hand we toasted to the fruitation of all our planning,
and to a new exciting river adventure.
Lying in my tent the next morning,
at least I thought it was morning —not
very dark here — with everything crossed, I hoped the smoke had
cleared. Not! Again, on the bright side, Ken was up with coffee and
tea brewed for the waking crew, including a good read from Anthony
Robins to motivate our day's adventure... or at least start the day
with humor and a good debate.
Moose splashed in the lake, caribou
could be seen on the mountain slopes and some excellent hiking was
had by
everyone— All this
from our camp! We enjoyed our two-day stay at Norseman Lake but had
to leave sometime. I had read a snippet about the portage from Norseman,
but not much info was available as most people start at Willowhandle
Lake. I had a hunch it would not be a bed of roses and was not disappointed.
Paddling up to the head of Norseman, we hiked up the height of land
and down to the river without a trail, through stunted birch over hummocky
ground. Eventually we reached
our destination and got our first glimpse of the Mountain? It
looked low, silty, and not much more than a small volume River.
Twelve hours
and
one thundershower later we had completed the overland portion of
our trip. We hoped? A twenty-five day trip requires
a bit more gear than normal, even without beer.
We rolled out of our sleeping
bags on day four in amazement; the smoke has finally cleared enough
to see detail in the surrounding mountains.
Excitement builds as we start loading our canoes for the first time,
preparing for all the magic the Mountain River will bring us. A perfect
warm-up to begin our journey! After refreshing our river signals and
running quickly through safety objectives for the day, we slide
into the river.
After a fun paddle on our first
day, we find a small but spacious campsite at river level. It was
our turn to
cook dinner.. Actually,
Carol cooks and I offer support or at least do as I’m told. Sitting
by the fire stirring the salmon chowder chuckling to
myself, I think back to our food preparation for the trip. Deciding
on a system to feed ten people for twenty-five days was an interesting
but in the end—not so challenging feat. We spent the first six
months of 2004 testing potential meals, quality and nourishment being
the top priority. Presentation soon became a prerequisite! It was an
interesting
day when some of the menu items arrived via email from other participants...
kind of upped the anti a bit. With items such as— Green Currie
of fish, Rice, marinated beets followed by peanut butter squares...
This was all it took to put Carol into a panic! Out came the books
again and after a while, her response was—Spicy coconut rotini
with mixed vegetables followed by cocoa oat delight squares! And so
it began. We do eat well on river trips!
There was a noticeable quietness
in the group while we loaded the canoes for our second day of paddling.
Today
we encounter our first
of seven canyons and it would be fair to say we were a bit anxious,
or at least tentative, knowing the first canyon contained two ninety-degree
corners. One of which slammed into a headwall containing an undercut
that could definitely provide consequence. Until this trip, when someone
mentioned the “C” word, I for some reason tense up! It
goes back to my first (bad) canyon experience on the Blaeberry River.
Although I couldn’t spit, it turned out to be a thrill and quite
simple. As we snuck the first corner inside river right, we
were greeted by a frantic furry of arms and paddles waving us out of
the river. (Not recommended at higher flows) After scouting, we immediately
set up to cross the flow towards river left, once past the rock face
we punched the eddy fence.. That night we camped at one of the most
amazing vista’s of the entire river.. We called it Sphinx Mountain
and played in its shadow for two days. We also had an enjoyable visit
with Teresa
and friend.
As we paddle, camp and hike in
amazement for the next few days, we finally make our way through
the second canyon to Grizzly Meadow below
Blackfeather Creek. The second canyon was strictly a float avoiding
the turbulent water but a canyon none the less.. We also encountered
our second group of the trip at the confluence of Blackfeather Creek.
The consensus was; We had made a good decision to start the trip
on the upper Mountain as opposed to Willowhandle Lake. Although I am
sure Blackfeather offered an adventure, I can hardly believe it would
allow for the amount of paddling, hiking and exploration we enjoyed
above it. With the completion of another quality shelter by the tarp
guy and company, we cross the river to check out the Meadow. WOW!!
The fan that creates this meadow is huge, offering a 180-degree panoramic
view that
extends kilometers in all directions. Tomorrow we check it out!
Morning arrives with a gorgeous
sunrise in tow. Excited about today’s
adventure, I enjoy a cup of strong coffee
sitting comfortably by the fire. I could not help noticing a slight grin as Ken read
his morning passages from Anthony Robins. Correction... Women are
from
Venus Men are from Mars. This ought to be good! As if the separation
of bow and stern were not enough? We have ten independently stubborn
people on this trip, and believe me when I say “opinionated,” myself
included. Ken is usually a quiet, thoughtful person and will
do anything for you (Well almost.. Jean was the only one to get coffee
in bed!) and for the most part, bucks the trend keeping his opinions
to himself. He was up to something? I stayed glued to my seat for
today’s debate and was not disappointed. There’s nothing
quite like starting a day’s paddle at opposite ends... before
you’re in the canoe!
After an excellent breakfast,
we gear up and head across to Grizzly Meadow for the hiking.
Making our way
towards the trees,
we notice caribou meandering across the meadow, and the ground seemed
to be moving. It is spiders! Butterwort plants also cover the expanse
of the meadow. I wonder if there is some kind of coexistence between
the spider and the insects’ butterwort plants trap? Beyond the
meadow we make our way up the creek bed and finally up to a height
of land that produced a good view of the alpine behind the meadow.
Finishing lunch the group splits into what I deemed the “Extreme
Team”, or “Summit Squad” and the “Halfway Hikers”— Carol,
myself and sometimes Darryl being the latter. Parting company we make
our way through sparse trees towards “Carol’s Knob” which
we eventually conquer. We spotted the knob from our campsite and that’s
where Carol wanted to go. It turned out to be boulders atop a huge
landslide, which at some point must have filled the valley
we had just hiked up. That would explain the magnitude of the fan called
Grizzly meadow. The erosive nature of the Mackenzie Mountains is quite
evident here. Inhaling the phenomenal views, we eventually made our
way back to camp. Along the way we saw more caribou and the “Guardian
of the Meadow”— A rock formation with striking resemblance
to a dog overlooking the meadow below.
On the menu tonight... Spicy
coconut rooting with peanut butter rice crispy squares. Darryl and
I set up the shower
for the group while
Carol heads to the creek for a bath. We heard her calling and as I
make my way to the creek, I am greeted by the biggest caribou I
have ever
seen! Towering above her, the bull caribou seems a bit confused. My
thought is— maybe it’s a good thing she wasn’t
bare butt to the wind!! No, I didn’t get a picture!!! When the
crew arrives we draw straws for the shower. Over the years of using
solar showers, filling them was a pain in the butt
and was never happy with water temperature! I brought a Sea-kayak pump!
Simply half fill the shower (in seconds) with cold water from a pot
using the pump and ditto the remainder with water heated from the fire!!!
Fast and simple, and I can guarantee I won’t be the only one
using this system on the rest of my trips. After dinner, all clean
and with nightcap in hand, we compare notes from the day's excursions,
and decide to move on in the morning.
Greeted by another beautiful
sunrise, we enter my best day on the river for scenery. The Mountain
River braided
back and forth across
the valley bottom providing a relaxing paddle with many pipe breaks.
Our necks were sore from the 360-degree view of spectacular mountain
vistas sporting incredible colours, I was awe-struck! WOW...
was the phrase of the day and none of my pictures could do it justice.
We took the opportunity to have our pictures taken in front of what
I called - Pose Mountain. (top of this page) We come across a large
herd of sheep and eventually made our way to the Shale Creek campsite.
As the day slowly faded away, we relaxed comfortably
by the fire watching the setting sun dance across the mountains in
the
distance.
Rainbows magically appeared as if to tie a ribbon on the great gift
we received today. For me at least, this is what it’s all about,
evoking emotions within that will remain forever. Most people will
never experience what we saw today, so for this I feel blessed. Today
one of my dreams came to pass; the rest of my trip will be a bonus...
I love layover days – breakfasts
are supplied! Unless of course, It’s my turn to cook. Exploration
for today - we climb the mountains towering behind our campsite.
Following Shale Creek for a while we
come across the only ice found on this trip and a garden variety of
flowers not seen until now. Admiring the extraordinary colours and
patterns in the rocks, we follow a creek up to the right hoping to
reach our alpine destination. As expected, the group eventually parts.
Radios were a welcomed and well used item to boot. Each couple
had a radio and were always in contact with each other... (when radio's
are turned on) This time the group split three ways. Carol and I
reached a vantage
point with a view that spanned the Mountain River for miles, and over-looked
the extreme team as they made their ascent. Still looking for my
grizzly, we settled for a moose and more caribou. Off in the distance
we see a dark squall heading our way and not long after we started
down, were soaked from stem to stern. Note to self; get better hiking
boots with good ankle support! Back at camp, Jeff and Marcy had tea
and hot soup ready for the waterlogged group as they straggled back
to base. Turning our shelter into a Chinese laundry, we prance around
in our Helly - Hansen undies... Another picture-op! Could have been
a good commercial! Once again the afternoon storm makes way for a gorgeous
evening and a wonderful sunset. Content and exhausted after today’s
adventure, everyone hits the hay with a plan to move on in the morning.
I did not feel tired and
opted to continue drying our hiking boots??? Mesmerized
by the fire I fade
back to our initial decision to paddle the Mountain River, and how
glad I was we did. The toughest call was deciding on the number of
participants. We had the perfect number of six already, but knew there
were more who would want to accompany us. Regardless of logistics,
we did not have the heart to say no to anyone. In the end we agreed
on ten and hoped the river could accommodate us without issue. Knowing
we travel with the largest tent (Taj Mahal) was cause for concern on
a personal level. It’s safe to say I’m not a minimalist
with comfort first and foremost! After all, we are in canoes.. bring
what you want! Carol and I are the least experienced in planning a
river trip so it was a great time to learn. Darryl and Lori, who usually
do the planning and happen to be our paddling mentors, graciously stepped
aside while assisting and guiding us through the planning stage. The
rest of the group fell in line as the need arose. It was a group plan
from the beginning and to this point has worked out quite well. Not
that we agreed on everything, far from it, however it’s the acceptance
one receives regardless of opinion or belief that makes true friendship.
We all know the importance of group dynamics and it seems to be running
smoothly. OOPS!! I just melted Carol’s hiking boots. It would
seem I get to test this theory tomorrow...
Morning made way to our first
rainy day. Our fantasy had to end sooner or later. Having a tent
you can tear down
under the fly was a blessing
in disguise. The mountains have changed in appearance but still majestically
line our path to the next point of interest. "The Moonscape" Green,
red and purple were the colours with the odd mountain goat seen along
the way. The bowl shape and steepness of the mountains observed
are definite signs of past glaciations. A cow and calf caribou swam
across the river, which was higher than yesterday. Reading trip reports
of the river rising a meter or more in a short time was cause for concern.
We pulled out for lunch under miserable conditions. I would bet those
in the group who didn’t bring drysuites were thinking about
it! You can’t miss the Moonscape! It spans from one side of the
valley to the other with the exception of where the river eventually
carved a new route. It truly seemed moon-like when you got on top.
(Not that I have been to the moon) It was an old landslide of massive
proportion that over time, has become weather worn and cloaked with
ground cover.
Leaving the Moonscape behind,
we negotiate some fun class two - two plus water down to the Tufa
Mounds - our next point of interest.
Admittedly, I had never experienced a Tufa mound before this trip.
When I approached the base I was stunned, it was huge! I had a tough
time comprehending the fact a very small stream of mineral water
could create such a profound geological presence. Once again, I expected
warm or hot water and was quite surprised to find it ice cold. Was
I the only dense person here? It was getting late so we negotiate
more
technical water in search of a campsite. This stretch of water was
fun but the timing could have been better. After a long cold day,
we finally make camp somewhere above Cache Creek. It was certainly
noticeable
how grumpy the group was. No more long days on the river and I hope
like hell the sun comes back. I suddenly imagined the next two weeks
with rain and snow. Tonight I pray!
It was a good morning to be alive!
Everyone seemed to shake off yesterday’s
blues, my prayer had been answered and I was excited about our next
stop, Cache Creek, which apparently has great fishing and we will
be staying there for a while. Some of our best white-water was paddled
this morning and we were only on the river for a couple of hours.
How can you beat that... Perfect! The only concerns were the bends
that had head walls creating very boily water and whirlpools. Sneaking
a corner would put you into a whole new world of challenges. Carol
and I had been practicing strokes and boat manoeuvres all along for
just this situation based on trip reports, and had decided to stay
with the main flow and go through the maw. What a blast! Approaching
Cache Creek I could see everyone was having as much fun as us, well
at least until we saw the fourth group camped at my dream site... I
was devastated! Lining our boats back up to get into Cache Creek, (went
too far) we introduce ourselves to the occupants of our desired campsite
and compare notes as to the trip so far. OK OK, I was actually excited
to meet people with the same passion as us in such a distant place,
and it turns out we could have camped a whole bunch of groups at this
site. Not only that... they had beer cooling in the river. Now that
made my mouth water!
Lining our canoes up Cache Creek
we eventually set up camp. Our system is quite simple. One person
from each boat
assess' the site for
potential camping and possible tent locations. If they return without
a life jacket or any other piece of gear, it means they have marked
their tent turf. Those who have remained at the canoes start unloading.
Taking turns at first dibs for tent locations usually works out fair
for everyone. Having the biggest tent is always a concern but one I
am willing to live with. We settled in for a lengthy stay, kicking
back and relaxing was the theme for this spot. Life is good when you
can slip into a pair of shorts and tee shirt without concern for bugs
in the NWT. Yes, I meant it! To this point I have not mentioned bugs
because there has not been many, or at least not what you would expect
up here. WOW!!!
Some people hiked, some fished
and some just lazed around camp under the heat of the day but we
all had one thing
in common... We would
spend two excellent days of R&R before challenging the first big
canyon. Now this is the holiday I had dreamt about. We caught some
grayling for appy’s, (not enough for dinner) went for long hikes,
explored the second amazing Tufa Mounds which included a hanging bridge,
and skinny dipped in the clear cool waters of Cache Creek. AHHH! Only
one thing could possibly top this.... Seeing my grizzly bear!
I suppose the only down side to our little Eden is the Cache Creek
canyon looming ominously below the camp. At some point we will have
to enter this portal, accepting what ever it deals us. After all,
we have watched two groups enter the canyon! How many made it out??
I find it quite amusing how the mind darts in and out of reality. I
guess I’m not quite over the “C” syndrome.
The weather changed to wind and rain and once again it was time to part
from our little piece of paradise through a gateway to the unknown.
Bundling up, I exit the tent seeking shelter from the cold and almost
snow-like conditions. When I reach the shelter I am welcomed by the
site of people standing around shivering. Most crawled back into
their bags for warmth and waited for the weather to break. I on the
other hand, had been dealing with the opposite problem... It was
warmer out here than in my over rated sleeping bag made by a well-known
company I will not mention! To date I have been dealing with a lack
of sleep due to this issue and admit it is starting to influence
my daily routine, mannerism and almost ruined my trip. To a degree,
my saving grace was Kenny’s bivvy sack. It’s smart to
invite someone who has everything along on these trips. To stay warm
I opted to start packing our gear. When the weather changed, everyone
followed suit and we finally slipped into the depths of Cache Creek
canyon.
The only bad thing that happened to me in this canyon was a kink in
my neck from looking at the walls towering well above us. As the
first section of canyon gave way we entered an amazing arena of colours
and lines different from anything we had experienced so far. Our
attention was soon focused on the first of two drops; a sharp bend
to the right off a head wall, which we scouted and decided to sneak
right punching the boil line guarding river right. One thing I have
not mentioned yet is the water level of this trip. According to most
trip reports, the only things that match is the location of each
point of interest, but the river characteristics are very different.
Considering there is a lot less water giving way to fewer options
for navigating each drop, it was a more technically challenging paddle.
This drop being no exception, it was crucial to stick your bow high
through the eddy fence guarding river right or chance drifting into
the big water against the head wall. Set-up was critical! My timing
was off a bit and put us closer to the main flow than I had anticipated.
If it wasn’t for the exceptional cross bow draw from Carol
that held the loaded boat and her stern guy, we may very well have
tasted the wrath of the Mountain River. I feel as if I just broke
a rule or something by acknowledging my paddling partners prowess
in the bow, but I damn proud of that stroke and to be her partner!
That’s life on the river! We all successfully dealt with the
demons on this drop in our own fashion and eventually slipped out
of the canyon without incident.
We continue on to Etagochile Creek as Ernie does a fly-by
to check our progress. With a tilt of the wing to acknowledge spotting
us, he heads off into the mountains from where we had just paddled... I
may
be going out on a limb here but I thought these last few kilometres
of continuous white-water above Etagochile Creek was the best on
the entire river. A bit stressful perhaps, considering the tension
between bow and stern, but nothing a good debrief couldn’t
solve. As we approach our final destination of the day, yet another
group, from North Carolina, greets us. One of which mentioned they
had been told they would not see anyone else on the river. I suppose
this would be true if every group was starting at the same put-in
and on the same timetable. We had doubled the suggested
time, and as a result, crossed paths with five groups. Not anticipated,
but in time we accepted that there were more people like ourselves
in the world who were willing to weather the cost and see this paddling
sanctuary.
The sun came back out and remained for the rest of our time on the
river. Another layover day and a chance to observe our neighbours
set out, avoiding the ugly in the cliff’s shadow across the
river, they take a smart sneak route and gradually disappear into
the distant landscape. Team "Magic" once again sets out to explore
the surroundings, I take this opportunity to bask in the sun and
hopefully
catch up on some much needed sleep. Well rested, I complete some
camp chores and put the tea on for the group. Tomorrow we paddle
through canyon four according to my trip journal, which is canyon
two from the trip reports we read.
Parting company with Etagochile Creek on day eighteen, we make our
way to Battleship Rock which guards the entrance to our next conquest.
According to trip reports there may be possible sneak routes. Not!
One way in and one way out pretty much covers it. Big boily water
and eddy lines were the only obstacles to be avoided in this passage.
Once again we exit unscathed but admittedly with higher levels of
adrenalin flowing. The wind picked up which made paddling difficult
for the remainder of the day. Not even the addition of the Stone
Feather River eased our plight! We stopped for lunch at the confluence,
ducking
behind bushes and driftwood for a well deserved rest from
the strong wind. The long day ended at a less
than desirable campsite but none the less, the day was over. Tonight
we recover!
No emotion was shown towards leaving this spot as we gear up for a
tricky corner and the next canyon. The tricky corner was no more
than keep to right of centre or the inside. We did scout it but in
the end wasn’t necessary. Happy with one more drop behind us,
we make our way into canyon three. (Fifth for our group) The landscape
has noticeably changed yet again, with the mountains shrinking in
stature and the timberline crawling much higher than when we started
our journey. Canyon three was a run and gun type scene. As we dropped
in through some fairly technical rapids, I got hit by the most water
so far this trip and decide it was a bit late to scout... We
eddy out at the bottom of the initial drop with the group to a spectacular
view and a well needed pumping of water. Remember the shower! Kayak
pumps work well for emptying your canoe with your spray-deck in place.
Moving on we repeated this action with the next drop and pulled out
below it. A bit backwards but it worked for us. Leaving this canyon
I was
focused on finding the set of class three rapids read in one report.
I looked back just in time to witness Ken and Jean doing a stern-squirt
from the big hole/wave river left! If I had not seen it, I would
not have believed it possible to get a loaded boat vertical. Back
to the class three rapid... not there! We find the next available
campsite and debrief the aerial acrobatics witnessed by most.
By now some of our numbers are pouting as we near the end. Knowing
we will soon be out of the mountains we paddle for about one hour
on day twenty, pulling out four kilometres above canyon four (six)
to our next campsite. Lots of fun class two waves found mostly on
the corners made for an enjoyable time. More leisure time under the
blazing hot sun. While some decide to hike behind camp on river left...
I slept! We are trying to delay the inevitable, once through Canyon
four, we will be leaving the mountains for good.
Our highest speed recorded while on the water this trip was 23.5 km
per hour with an average of 11.5 km-- it didn’t take
long to get to Canyon four. We get out river left to scout and find
perhaps
the easiest canyon access yet. The plan was fairly straightforward...
Avoid the boily stuff. However, getting in was a bit simpler than
getting out. Because of the low water, the main flow on river left
narrowed considerably against the rock face with boulders thwarting
any inside attempt. We opted to take a sneak route below the high
cliff river right, keeping a direct angle down stream to avoid broaching.
The first drop was a bit bumpy, the second went from zero to mach
three as we entered the main flow again. Keeping a steep ferry angle
we crossed above the squirrelly water and headwall. Another successful
canyon descent, we pay homage to the Canyon Troll high on river right
as we make our exit from the canyon, including the last of the mountains.
In all, we traveled thirty-five kilometers, camping about eight kilometres
above canyon five (seven). Getting there through the braided channels
was the fun part. Everyone took their turn at the lead. We only lost
one canoe on this section. That’s what probes are for! As I
paddle along, it is inexplicably obvious that something is up with
all the erosion. Permafrost has been thawing on a large scale and
as a result, landslides and side-slope failures were everywhere creating
very muddy water. With my background, I was quite aware of the potential
hazards to us on this stretch and to be honest, was quite uncomfortable
as we paddled along any side hills. We discovered a sandy campsite
with a sunset that never quit. What a way to end the day. There are unbelievable colours, styles and types
of rocks along this river. Anything Carol couldn’t lift had
to stay behind... just kidding.
Could you guess we had more braided sections to paddle? Lost another
canoe today.. Yep! But we knew they would end up at canyon five eventually.
We use our pipe break as an opportunity to take photographs before
entering the canyon. By all accounts, this was the only canyon that
matched the trip reports. Bashfulness aside, communal bathing at
the warm spring was enjoyed by all, which was only a few hundred
meters from our second last campsite on the Mountain River. Fossils
were littered everywhere at this location. My senses were stimulated
by the thought of past life and how it was still actively
changing and evolving. Bug nets were noticed on some people as the
noseeum’s made their debut... Getting closer to the Mackenzie
River basin!
August 9th - day 23 is a special
day. Today Carol and I celebrate our 18th Anniversary! How could
one ask for a better
way to celebrate
a life long companionship than the past 23 days! As we paddled thirty-five
kilometres, the smoke gradually engulfs us and are once again blanketed
by the orange glow in the sky. Settled in to our last camp on the
Mountain River, our companions present us with some wonderful hand
made gifts to acknowledge our special day. Once again my emotions are
stroked by the thoughtfulness. To me, the gifts are
more than a token of friendship, they will be cherished as a way
to relive this trip time and again. And for that, I am grateful.
Under the blazing hot sun we
head into the returning smoke en-route to our final destination.
The river still braided, but the speed slowed
the closer we got to the Mackenzie. It was a quiet day as the thought
of trips end started to sink in. I could sense everyone dealing with
the same issue in their own special way. The surrounding landscape
had gradually disappeared from view below the timber on rivers edge
since leaving the last canyon. The mountains had left us far behind,
and now my emotions were running wild with the thought of our adventure
coming to an end.
Approaching the Mackenzie River we hear a thunderous roar in the distance.
The Sans Sault Rapids is our guess, which is thankfully located below
the confluence of the Mountain River, and our final resting spot.
This is my first glance at the Mackenzie and find myself once again
in awe at the size! We make our way slowly up along the shore to
the last campsite. Tonight we have something special planned for
one of our Voyageurs... It’s Jeff’s Fiftieth birthday
and the group has been working frantically for days preparing
tonight's celebration. All gave memorable gifts, birch bark party
hats were made and the last of the rum shared. A fitting end to a
wonderful trip, and a needed diversion from my anguish!
The Mountain River was alive, and as we traversed its length discovering
all its unique characteristics, you could see it was full of life.
Giving is what a river does. They are the veins on which the world
thrives.
What the Mountain River gave to me will remain embodied in my spirit
for the rest of my existence. In the end it was quite simple...
It gave me Life... by providing the emotions to experience it fully!
In the end.... I received far more than a dream come true.
~River Life~
Thank you to everyone who shared this journey with us, and to those
who helped make it possible! In particular, Richard Watt for sharing
their trip which planted the seed of desire. Most of all - Carol for
putting up with my emotional roller coaster and bad lines!
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